Storm Damage.  I was able to get it back pretty close to normal, but with a few rips.  Another big windstorm might do a lot more damage, but at least the boat is fully epoxy sealed now, so you could fill it up with water and not hurt it.
I found a section where our epoxy mix must have been wrong when wetting out the fabric.  Here I've removed the fabric and am scrubbing off the uncured epoxy.  Later I found that a paint scraper worked pretty well.  I finished with 40-grit sandpaper.  It's amazing how neatly the bad section is isolated from the good stuff.  That's just about the amount of coverage we'd been getting from one batch, but I'd have thought the borders would be more blurry; the edges are very clear-cut.  The epoxy on either end of the bad section is as hard as you could ask.
Finally cut the transom and sternpost down.
We decided it would look better if the transom edge at the top of the curve were parallel with the top of the sternpost, which from the plans appeared to be 90 degrees to sternpost's aft side, rather than 90 degrees to the face of the transom.  We should have thought of that when laying out the transom, of course, but in the event we found we didn't quite have enough transom to do that and still have a nice curve rising from the coaming ends.  Here you can just see the missing section of the transom that leaves.
Here, we're gluing in a filler piece for that missing section above.
Coamings installed, mostly. That's just scrap or a tool or something just aft of the bitt, not the forward transverse section of the coaming, which hadn't been fitted yet.
Coamings from bow, showing where we'll step-scarf the remainders of longitudinal sections.
One week later (Oct 22, 2001).  Dad trimmed our patch piece with sabersaw, and fitted a cap over the end-grain.
Notice Dad has finished the coamings -- scarfed on the last forward section of the longitudinals, and put in the transverse section, up against the bitt.  Note that this is a deviation from the original plan brought on by our decision to raise the main mast partner (from a 2x8 or 2x10) to double as a very large deck beam, and to make the rake adjustable.
Here are a couple mocked-up mast wedges with the collar that will slide fore and aft to adjust rake.  This is the minimum rake setting for these wedges, probably still not vertical, though we haven't actually checked it yet.
Mast wedges loose.  In the production versions, we'll make the outside portions longer so they won't be as apt to fall through the hole.
Middle rake postion.
Maximum rake -- mast as far back as possible unless we cut the hole back farther..
Installed the pin in the bitt.  Anybody know what the pin is called?
That white stuff everywhere is epoxy sand-dust.  The flash really picks it up.  In person, it's not as obtrusive as it seems here.  It wasn't really this dark, either.  Early dusk.  You can see the little built-in flash on my Nikon Coolpix-800 digital camera doesn't extend very far.
Oct 27-28, 2001. Winds had ripped up the shelter quite a bit, so we decided it was time to take it down.
We dry-fitted the rudder.  Notice we're leaving the rod in one piece for now to help align things.  Eventually we'll epoxy it into the pintles on the rudder, still in one piece, and finally cut away the parts not needed for the pins.
We found a cotter pin at the hardware store that works nicely for the tiller.  I suppose it ought to be stainless steel or bronze.  We'll buy a new one when this one rusts.
You have to step way back to get the top of the mast in the picture.
We're going to use the mainmast as a ridge pole for the tarp, braced in the center so it won't warp.
11/4/2001. Rub rails dry-fitted.
Couldn't twist the 1x2's enough to avoid that big gap -- probably an eighth inch or more at the bottom.  We'll need a lot of bedding compound.
We fastened from the bow aft.  At the joint here, we couldn't twist the 1x2 enough to bring it up to the topside at the bottom, leaving a wedge-shaped gap.  We shimmed beneath the next piece to make it match.
The topsides start a slight reverse curve out to meet the stem a few inches aft of the stem.  This would have created a small gap, so we decided to end the rub-rail there with a 45 degree bevel.  Those funny patches on the topside and stem are mostly digital image artifacts -- I must have gone overboard with image compression, though some of the stuff near the top is epoxy drip and a place where paint chips came away when we trimmed the deck fabric overhang.
Port side before the rub rail.
Dusk by the time we finished the port rail.  Cold, too.